Wishing for more

So what does it accompany? My choice of Langoustine Ravioli (with braised endive and orange, langoustine and olive oil jus) is a thing of beauty, but it's more than skin deep, with rich langoustine flesh bulging from satisfyingly chunky pockets of ravioli. The jus takes any potential bitterness from the endive. Across the table, the Cured Foie Gras and Smoked Pheasant with quince puree is another art installation, more substantial than it appears and packed with flavour.

The main courses are a love letter to Scottish produce with meat, game and fish. My Roast Loin and Civet of Hare with braised winter vegetables, truffle gnocchi, mushroom and Madeira consomme is as good as it sounds. For once the vegetables are just as spectacular as the meat, rather than playing a supporting role.
The Brained Shin of Ross-shire Beef with pumpkin puree, bone marrow, pomme souffle and red wine sauce is a tower of finest beef which falls apart at the first fork to reveal beautifully shredded, miraculously tender beef.
And even as conformed carnivores, Wishart should be given extra kudos for providing full vegetarian a la carte and tasting menus.

Even though our choices are perfect winter food, there is definite room for dessert. My partner's face crumples when there is nothing containing chocolate on the menu, so he plumps for something which to all the world seems like apples and blueberries in a canneloni-style pancake, while I choose the Caramel Souffle. Lesson learned. If in doubt, ask. There was no indication that the fruit would be joined by a rather pungent blue cheese. Nasty surprise for him, delight for me, as I reach over and nibbled from his plate in preference to my souffle. It arrives with a flourish, with the sauce being poured inside at the table, but inside it's disappointingly doughy.

The dessert is the only part of the evening that could prevent a 100% recommendation, but Martin Wishart deserves a second star, this time on the walk of culinary fame.