Wishing for more

To the outside observer, the area around Leith docks has undergone a startling overnight transformation, from Trainspotting to star-spotting in the blink of an eye.
However, those who used to walk the mean streets in this area of Edinburgh know that the gentrification has been a long, hard slog and down to people having faith that Irvine Welsh's nastiest characters wouldn't come round and break the windows. Even the Queen's old yacht lives here now.

It's fair to say that it's now the most desirable spot in the Scottish capital, with shiny new loft apartments, shops with price tags to make the eyes water, but most of all, lots and lots of lovely restaurants. Two of Edinburgh's three Michelin-starred restaurants are in this area, but the original was Martin Wishart's.

He arrived here in 1999 and since then has reinforced his shelves to accommodate awards and commendations including Scottish Restaurant of the Year and Scottish Chef of the Year.

Facing the water, on a quaint cobbled street, there's a romance about coming to Restaurant Martin Wishart, even on the rainiest night. There's an immediate welcome, which is as respectful as you would expect. It sets the tone for the service, which is formal but never stuffy. The interior is neutral without falling foul of bland and the furry chairs are the most comfortable I've ever rested my well-fed behind on in a restaurant.
With 15 tables it feels like a private dining area or the dining room of a wealthy friend's home - even the CD player is on display, and with so many expert waiting staff, the pace of the meal is beautifully judged with just enough time between courses. And really, why would you want to rush this? We could fill this page talking only about the canapes and
amuse bouche, but the main event deserves some chewing over.

The wine list arrives on the table with a satisfying “thunk”, and thankfully with one of us driving there is an amazing selection of half bottles. A Chinon from the Loire is the choice here, and even to my normally beer-swilling partner, it is divine.