Surrey's Secret

Alexander’s at Limpsfield – Alexander’s to its friends – is a restaurant of ambition. Formerly the Old Lodge, new owners Patricia and James Douglas have changed the décor and brought in Michelin-starred experience in chef Simon Attridge (an impressively CV’d former Blumenthal employee) and manager Bruno Cicco (The Waterside Inn among others) to give this area – serious stockbroker belt – the restaurant they feel it deserves.

A few hiccups later – and after a certain Sunday paper restaurant reviewer seriously sharpened his pen on their flaws – they’ve had a little bit of a rethink. The reviewer really attacked their prices, so the a la carte is down to £33 for two courses and £40 for three. Yes, its down to those prices so, to be frank, he probably had a point. While ambition is good to have, and Alexander’s is a place that’s clearly after a Michelin star, they were charging as if they already had at least one. Now, while it’s not exactly budget levels, it’s a far more realistic price. However, if they are aiming to up the cost upon receipt of that much-desired star, it’s probably worthwhile booking now: there are still some wrinkles to iron out but Alexander’s is well on its way to that level.

The setting is suitably opulent and befits the 16th century building. There is something hugely reassuring about wood panels, a huge fireplace, white linen and brown leather chairs, and, despite the occasional modern twist – the chairs are funkier than you’re probably imagining – the room has that old-fashioned English opulence that makes you think that if you take a wrong door on the way to the loo you could end up ruling Narnia.

As well as the a la carte ‘deal’, there’s a very good tasting menu of eight courses for £59, or £95 with wines. This is an excellent introduction to Simon’s sometimes bold cooking, and clear evidence of Bruno’s extensive wine knowledge.

To start, Hand Dived Scallop, Pain d’epice Crumble, Poached Pear, Celery, Spiced Red Wine Reduction.