Loyal Locals

Monifieth is not a name which appears in many guide books to Scotland. It may merit a paragraph as the upmarket residential area which adjoins Broughty Ferry, a pretty former fishing village, and Carnoustie, the small town which runs on golf, but in itself it's not a tourist attraction.

So, anyone opening a restaurant here is depending on the good will of those who live here, Broughty Ferry, Carnoustie and perhaps foodies curious enough to make the 20-minute journey from Dundee.

It's taken chef/proprietor Steve Hyatt two years to build that good will, and now The Blue Marlin has become that most elusive of creatures, a comfortable, inexpensive seafood restaurant.

Passing trade has never been a huge aspect of this success. It is situated in what can only be described as a 1970s concrete shopping arcade, with a frontage designed to scream “we're here!” as opposed to beckoning customers in quietly and seductively.

This is an important lesson in not judging a book by its cover, however, and once past the signage, the interior reveals itself as something altogether more appropriate. Simple colours and furniture, wall cladding in a New England style, and soft lighting come together to create an atmosphere that transports diners from the streets of Monifieth to a harbour at Cape Cod. With a glass of South Australia's beautifully named Tiddy Widdy Well Colombard Riesling in hand, it's time to choose.

Admittedly, this is not the first visit here, it's the third, in the spirit of supporting someone trying to offer something a bit special. It has to be said, however, that since that second visit, something has happened here. It has taken that important leap from good to excellent. The menu is more considered, the flavours are more subtle, and presentation is impressive without ever being frou-frou. Hyatt is a big man with big personality and there's little chance of him sprinkling something that's just, well, unnecessary.

This is the east coast of Scotland, so sourcing good seafood should not be a problem.